[Las Vegas] Officer Eugen Holm retired yesterday in lieu of being fired. This was confirmed by an internal affairs investigator this morning.
Officer Holm was facing Internal Affairs charges for: (1) Not reporting an accident (Metro Policy Manual 5/103.29), (2) Wrongful interaction with the public (for being discourteous and rude, Metro Policy Manual 4/102.12), and (3) Conduct Unbecoming an Officer (intimidation, Civil Service Rule 510-2). All charges were “SUSTAINED”.
Anyone can have a wreck. That’s not the issue.
The issue is hitting someone then not checking to see if they are ok. And then badge-and-gun backed bullying them even though you were at fault.
If an open carrying citizen rear-ended a bike cop and started getting aggressive like that there’d likely be some “feared for my life” and one dead citizen.
I suggest that there was very little Service or Protection going on for the citizen’s tax dollars.
Last time I posted (3 weeks ago?!?!?!) I needed to install headlights to get the little machine inspected and thus registered.
In which I test the headlights
I got the headlights in and installed them but couldn’t test as I’d lost the sole key. 😦 Eventually I realized I could pull the ignition switch out and hotwire it to run the bike and test the lights.
That worked and the lights were fine. So I headed off toward Emory for Continue reading
Two setbacks in this little adventure that have pushed my inspection/registration back another week.
This machine uses HS1 35/35w bulbs (same wattage lowbeam/highbeam) but the more-common H4 bulbs are backwards compatible if they are 35/35w. I couldn’t find any HS1 or any low-wattage H4 at auto parts stores or Wally World. The HS1 and apprpriate H4 are available online from Amazon and elsewhere but won’t arrive until tomorrow when my 4×10 workweek has started again.
I hadn’t ordered them before because I didn’t know if the bulbs were blown or if Continue reading
[Update: looks like I was not the only one]
Honda Financial is having a bit of an irregular week.
I just got a text that I had a direct deposit in my account which didn’t make sense. When I looked it appears Honda had:
- not made the debit until the 5th, which was weird since it was scheduled for the 1st
- then made another debit on the 6th
- and refunded the 2nd debit today, the 7th
Good thing I had enough in checking to handle the double tap; for the last couple of years I’ve kept that account pretty lean as I pay “until it hurts” on credit card balances. Making progress!
Today I put fresh gas in the Chinascoot (gas gauge works, yay!) and took it out for a backroad run of a few miles. Some smooth oiltop, some rougher oiltop, some dirt, some gravel. The gravel wasn’t as much fun.
It was a good ride. The odometer worked. When I was trundling around slowly with neutral throttle at 15-20mph the revs dropped down to around 2500. Under max load it it was 4500-5000. I liked the CVT’s adjustments and may just leave it there.
I got it up to an indicated 55mph. The variator must have been topped out because rpm finally climbed to 6000 at that top speed. I could get a little more in that straight but just after 55mph the chassis started to feel unsettled/squirrely so I backed down. It could have been the uneven road surface but I didn’t want to go any faster.
The tires on this thing are kind of a sporty low-profile look. It makes for odd feedback on cambered surfaces. When I replace the tires I might go for a more traditional round tire profile. I had a similar issue on my street bike; the OEM rear had a shape that made the bike want to “fall in” on cambers/turns. When I replaced the rear with a Continental Motion that tendency went away completely.
Working on headlights tomorrow. Bulbs just cheap and blown? Voltage too high due to failing R/R? I think headlights are the only thing left before inspection and registration.
I was sick today and came home early. The sliders (variator weights) had come in the mail but I was in no condition to mess with it. Drank a boatload of water, slept several hours and started feeling human again around 11pm.
So where are those CVT parts? 🙂
I got the sliders in 13g because the stock rollers were 13g. Since I hear you are supposed to go up +1g with sliders I figured it would be an incremental net lightening.
I dropped the generic eBay weights (“ForExtreme”, $14 shipped) into the cleaned-up variator.
Put some air in the tires, cranked it up on whatever gas was still in the tank from god-knows-when the P.O. put it there. 🙂 and took it for the first test ride.
Motor seems seems strong and willing. I’ve never ridden a 150cc scoot before and the acceration was surprising. Idle is too low. Ran it up to indicated 50mph which I figured was a reasonable cruising speed. Turned it around and parked for the night.
CVT is smooth and holds a steady indicated 4k rpm on the dash tach under load and readjusts appropriately at neutral throttle and decel. The wikipedia page suggests the max HP is at 7k so if the tach is correct there is plenty of headroom. I’ll leave slider weight where it is while I learn how the rescued beast likes to run. After that it sounds like I could lighten them up. I’m not chasing performance though. It’s for around the village and bopping around.
Chinese (mainland) scooters and bikes can be a great value but do require research and work in the American context. In general Chinese scoots cost about 1/4 as much as Japanese ones.
In China scooters and small bikes are cheap transportation that can repaired by the owner or repaired in the street by omnipresent curbside shops. Parts are generic, ubiquitous, and of fair-at-best quality. The engines and general designs are usually shameless rips of Honda designs.
In America bike shops generally won’t look at your Chinese scooter. Which is good because shop rates are high. And because it will need regular TLC. So we need to learn some survival skills.
Do all this before the first ride:
- replace fuel lines. About $5 for fancy-ass tygon or whatever.
- replace vacuum lines. Silicone seems to be popular these days. About $5.
- drain and replace engine oil – use dino for at least the first oil change. You can afford to splurge, though, as gy6 motors hold less than 1qt of oil :-). About $5 for good oil. This would be a good time to install a magnetic drain plug; it’s $$$ at amazon but I find it for about $13 shipped everyone once in a while around the net
- drain and replace transmission oil. About $3.
- replace spark plug – traditionally replaced with NGK. About $3.
- set valve lash while you’ve got the plug pulled so you can rotate the engine easily. Free.
- check every fastener you can get to. Free. Consider using a torque wrench and blue loctite if you already have it.
Change when convenient
- replace tire valves the first time you unmount the tire. OEM ones are infamous for cracking and leaking. Normally the 90-deg bent ones work best on small-wheeled scoots. $2 ea.
- replace drive belt with a Gates Powerlink. You can keep the OEM in the emergency kit as a backup or donor to a stranded friend. Normal Gates belts are $10, kevlar ones are closer to $20.
Stuff to carry with you under the seat or in a toolbag:
- replacement CDI (electronic ignition) for your bike. About $8.
- replacement drive belt, maybe the OEM one you took off earlier.
- replacement fuse. About $2.
- tire plug kit
Useful to have
- 12v charger. Battery Tender or similar with quick-connect. $20.
- torque wrench. Digital head or old school style, about $30.
- tire irons. $8 x 3.
- variator puller. About $15 or you can make your own.
- blue loc-tite
- rectifier/regulator. The battery won’t charge when voltage is low and bulbs/fuses will burn out if output voltage is high. About $10.